The handle or riser section of the bow may be straight or have an indentation for the hand. Although the former is more period, some feel the latter is a more comfortable grip. When choosing a bow, you may want to try both types. In some bows one-third to one-half of the riser is cut away for the sight window and arrow rest. This is done so the arrow can pass closer to the center of the bow and hence these are often referred to as being centershot bows. Depending on which side is cut away, the bow will be considered a right-handed or left-handed bow.

Many simple bows do not have a cut-out riser and may instead have an arrow shelf rest on both sides. They may be used by either left-handed or right-handed people. The limbs of most bows are equal in their size and amount of bend. There are some exceptions to this, most notably Japanese style bows, but in general, if one limb bends excessively more than another when drawn, you may want to get a second opinion concerning the bow's usability. The side of the limbs that is closest to the string is called the face or belly of the bow. The side of the limbs that is away from the string is called the back of the bow. Limbs may be very flat or rounded, such as in a 'D' shape. In general, if they are rounded they are narrow, if flat, they are usually wider. Each of the shapes and widths of the limbs gives a different reaction of the bow and will affect the speed of the arrow. The tips of the bow have grooves (notches) to hold the string. They may be cut into the bow material, or may be made of a different material and be attached to the ends of the bow such as horn tips on traditional longbows. On bows with narrow tips there may be some extra layering to reinforce the tip.

To those interested in becoming archers, a primary consideration is the proper choice of a bow. This choice is often confusing to the beginner because of the vast number and types of bows to choose from. If it is at all possible, take a knowledgeable person with you when purchasing archery equipment. Bows vary in length. If you will be hunting with this bow as well as target shooting, you need a shorter bow. The shorter bow is easier to use in wooded areas or out of a blind or tree stand. If your intention is strictly target shooting, you might prefer a longer bow, particularly if you have a long draw length (the distance you pull the string away from the bow when shooting). Longer bows cast the arrow differently than short bows and have less finger pinch from the string. In the diagram to the right, the shorter bow makes a much smaller angle when drawn thereby providing less space for your fingers. If you have short arms and a short draw length, you may not be getting the full action of the ends of long bow limbs and may prefer a shorter bow.

When buying a recurve, it is a good rule to find a bow that you can easily hold at a full draw for ten seconds, then purchase one that is five lbs. heavier. The reason for this is that the back and shoulder muscles used in drawing a bow develop rapidly with practice. You will work into a heavier bow within a relatively short period of time. A common mistake of beginners is to select a bow with a draw weight that is too heavy. Bow (draw) weight does not pertain to the actual weight of the bow due to gravity but rather to the drawing force, measured in pounds, necessary to draw an arrow to its full length. Practically all bowyers have standardized their bow weights at 28 inches of draw for adult bows. The reason for this is that the arm span of the average adult male is suited to this arrow length. Children's bows may have either a 20 inch or 24 inch standard draw. Please remember that this draw length is an average and may not be best suited for you. A loss or gain in draw length will result in a loss or gain in draw weight. In most makes of these bows, the change is 2 to 2.5 lbs. per inch, i.e., a 30 inch draw length would change a draw weight of 30 lbs. to about 34 or 35 lbs. Avoid bow weights that are difficult to pull. Overly heavy bows will result in poor shooting which is often discouraging. You may find it hard to improve and the odds are that you will quit before you have developed enough muscle to allow you to improve your shooting. The following table gives a general draw weight guide as a starting point:

SMALL CHILDREN: 10 to 15 lbs.

YOUTH (10-14 yr.): 15 to 25 lbs.

TEENS & WOMEN: 18 to 30 lbs.

MEN: 25 to 40 lbs for target; 45 to 80 lbs. for hunting